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ENGINE:
Will be similar to the above pic, but a little different. Looking to make roughly 600hp/600tq in a fairly mild state of tune. Should be completely do-able.
1974 460
~10.5:1 compression
4.500" Cast crank
H-Beam rods
Hypereutectic pistons - KB402
Trick Flow Street Aluminum Heads - 72cc - OOTB
EFI bung'd Edelbrock Victor intake
Holley 105mm TB
Megasquirt V.3
1-3/4" headers
Lunati 31605 Hyd cam
Procomp BBF HEI distributor
I jacked around with getting a custom cam, but this Lunati grind equalled everything I came up with and out powered most in Dyno2003. While absolute HP numbers may not reflect real world numbers, I have been told by experienced race engine builders that DD2003 is good at comparing one cam to another, etc, to fine tune your combo prior to purchasing parts.
Edelbrock Victor intake with 90 degree sheetmetal elbow and Holley TB
BBF HEI distributor. Gotta love the simplicity and 1 wire hookup.
Megasquirt
EFI Bungs to be welded/epoxied into the Victor.
Trick Flow Heads - Good heads are ABSOLUTELY NECESSARY for a good running BBF
Requsite double hump oil pan: P/N M-6675-A460
TRANSMISSION:
Rebuilt Ford C6 with TCI reverse manual valve body and transbrake.
ENGINE MOUNTS:
Being the D-I-Y guy I am I just can't settle for premade mounts! I gotta come up with something else.... today's thinking is a '74 LTD 460 rubber engine mount ($15/ea.) bolted to the block with a Moroso 62630 Chevrolet motor mount ($33/pr) bolted to the engine cradle with a thru bolt connecting the two. That will give me some fore/aft adjustment to tweak the engine position in the bay. Then I'll maybe make a couple of spacers to slip on the bolt to positively locate the engine. I'm trying to come up with something really easy, that just about anybody could duplicate if they wanted.
I ended up buying a set of Fox body Mustang 460 mounts on Ebay. Pretty cheap. $65 for the mounts and rubber isolators, so I will see how they work as well as the other option of piecing together a cheapo (like $65 ain't cheapo enough!) approach if the motor ends up being too high in the chassis.
After measuring a bunch of stuff and putting it all in the computer, the Mustang mounts *may* end up being too tall to tuck that motor down and back like I want, so the custom way discussed above might end up being the ticket after all. I suppose the oil pan will really dictate which one to use.
HEADERS:
460 headers for a van. Another guy used these on his 2000 Ranger with some modifications. They were really cheap, so if I jack them up it's no big deal.
Will be similar to the above pic, but a little different. Looking to make roughly 600hp/600tq in a fairly mild state of tune. Should be completely do-able.
1974 460
~10.5:1 compression
4.500" Cast crank
H-Beam rods
Hypereutectic pistons - KB402
Trick Flow Street Aluminum Heads - 72cc - OOTB
EFI bung'd Edelbrock Victor intake
Holley 105mm TB
Megasquirt V.3
1-3/4" headers
Lunati 31605 Hyd cam
Procomp BBF HEI distributor
I jacked around with getting a custom cam, but this Lunati grind equalled everything I came up with and out powered most in Dyno2003. While absolute HP numbers may not reflect real world numbers, I have been told by experienced race engine builders that DD2003 is good at comparing one cam to another, etc, to fine tune your combo prior to purchasing parts.
Edelbrock Victor intake with 90 degree sheetmetal elbow and Holley TB
BBF HEI distributor. Gotta love the simplicity and 1 wire hookup.
Megasquirt
EFI Bungs to be welded/epoxied into the Victor.
Trick Flow Heads - Good heads are ABSOLUTELY NECESSARY for a good running BBF
Requsite double hump oil pan: P/N M-6675-A460
TRANSMISSION:
Rebuilt Ford C6 with TCI reverse manual valve body and transbrake.
ENGINE MOUNTS:
Being the D-I-Y guy I am I just can't settle for premade mounts! I gotta come up with something else.... today's thinking is a '74 LTD 460 rubber engine mount ($15/ea.) bolted to the block with a Moroso 62630 Chevrolet motor mount ($33/pr) bolted to the engine cradle with a thru bolt connecting the two. That will give me some fore/aft adjustment to tweak the engine position in the bay. Then I'll maybe make a couple of spacers to slip on the bolt to positively locate the engine. I'm trying to come up with something really easy, that just about anybody could duplicate if they wanted.
I ended up buying a set of Fox body Mustang 460 mounts on Ebay. Pretty cheap. $65 for the mounts and rubber isolators, so I will see how they work as well as the other option of piecing together a cheapo (like $65 ain't cheapo enough!) approach if the motor ends up being too high in the chassis.
After measuring a bunch of stuff and putting it all in the computer, the Mustang mounts *may* end up being too tall to tuck that motor down and back like I want, so the custom way discussed above might end up being the ticket after all. I suppose the oil pan will really dictate which one to use.
HEADERS:
460 headers for a van. Another guy used these on his 2000 Ranger with some modifications. They were really cheap, so if I jack them up it's no big deal.
